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Dan's
July
Best of Season

Fruits
Berries
Raspberries
Cherries
Cherries
Rainier cherries
Kiwi
Gold kiwi
Melons
Canary melons
Galia melons
Honeydue melons
Orange flesh honeydew
Sharlyn melons
Oranges
Australian naval oranges
Peaches and Necterines
Artic Rose nectarines
Cling peaches
Elegant lady peaches
Fay Elberta peaches
Honeycrisp peachess
White peaches
Pluots
pluots
Watermelon
Seeded watermelon
Yellow watermelonn
Vegetables
Beans
Romano beans
Fresh garbanzo beans
Corn
White corn
Yellow corn
Cucumbers
Armenian cucumbers
Lemon cucumbers
Eggplant
Baby eggplant
Onions
Italian sweet red onions
Wala Walla sweet onions
Peppers
Fresh cayenne peppers
Squash
Sunburst squash
White zucchini
Tomatoes
Beefsteak tomatoes
Heirloom tomatoes
How to Select Corn
When selecting fresh corn, look for plump, firm ears. (Isn't it weird how we name our vegetables and fruits after body parts? An ear of corn, a hand of bananas, ribs of celery, the heart of artichokes, a head of lettuce, navel oranges… I could go on, but that might get too corny. Ha!) Back to the produce stand: look at the husks and make sure they are green and moist. Feel the ear for any sunken areas that may be hiding under the husks. The silk should be white or yellowish green. At times there may be a small amount of browning at the ends, but the rest should be fresh and healthy. Pull the husks back about ¼ of the way to reveal the tip of the ear. The kernels should be firm, plump and shiny. Avoid sunken kernels, dry or yellowish husks and black-spotted husks. These are signs of age and indicate that the corn is better suited for cattle. There is no reason for corn like this to be on the rack, especially this time of year when the fresh harvest is in.
How to Prepare Corn
Grilled Corn
On your next visit to the produce stand, instead of shucking all the husks off and dumping them in the barrel, bring the corn home husks and all. Throw the ears on the grill with whatever else you may be barbecuing and let them cook right there in the husks! Turn the ears occasionally so they cook evenly. Toward the end of the cooking time, go ahead and peel away the husks a little bit to let some of the kernels get charred; it will add such fantastic flavor to the corn, you’ll be happy to eat it even without glopping any butter on it!
Microwaved Corn
If you don’t want to fire up the grill, you can also cook corn in the microwave, husks and all, with good results. For one to three ears, calculate five minutes per ear. I've never cooked more than three ears at a time in the microwave, so you may have to adjust the timing if you’re working with a bigger batch. Be sure to wait a few minutes before peeling back the husks, since they are very hot and can give a nasty burn. You can also roast corn in the oven with the husk on, allowing the moisture in the fresh husks to naturally steam the corn.
Spicing Up Corn
Whichever cooking method you choose for your ears, after you get ‘em naked, brush them with olive oil and sprinkle with cayenne pepper. Mmmmmm! A fantastic, flavorful and healthier alternative to butter and salt.
Uncooked Corn
Contrary to what most people believe, corn does not have to be cooked to be enjoyed. When I’m purchasing bins or palletized boxes of corn, I always dig right in, break an ear in half, and then bite into it to make sure it’s good. I usually finish eating the whole ear while I’m negotiating the price—and I most always get the price I want. Maybe the salesperson is uncomfortable with the fact that I'm eating it raw… or maybe he just can’t resist my charm and personality. Yeah, that’s it!
Columns to Savor
Dan Avakian
Summer Cherries
Artichokes and Fresh Strawberries
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Produce Expert
Dan Avakian
Getting Fresh
Summer Produce
Iceberg Lettuce
Corn
In Defense of
Iceberg Lettuce
Recently I went to one of my favorite delicatessens for a BLT. I have to say that the bacon was incredible; it was wood smoked and thick and cooked crispy the way I like it. The bread was delicious, lightly toasted sourdough, and the tomatoes were just as tasty. The only disappointment was the lettuce. Where was the crunch?
Well, my favorite deli uses “Spring Mix” on their sandwiches, and that includes the BLT. In my view there is a special place for Spring Mix at a fine eating establishment. A nice salad with goat cheese and walnuts perhaps. But on a BLT, no way! It reminds me of the burger joints that put one soft leaf of green leaf lettuce on their “gourmet” burgers. I can’t stand it! Here’s a message to you chefs who are probably already offended by this paragraph: I want crunchy, crispy iceberg lettuce on my BLT and on my burgers! Could you imagine a taco with spring mix or leaf lettuce? Give me a break!
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Corn
It used to be that when you wanted delicious sweet corn you had to pick it just moments before cooking and rush to an already-boiling pot of water. It also used to be that white corn was sweeter than yellow. Those days are long gone. Super-sweet and even sweeter-than-super-sweet varieties have been developed, and now dominate the market. These varieties will stay sweet and delicious for up to ten days after harvest if kept properly refrigerated.
Keep an eye out for the bi-colored corn, also called “Peaches & Cream,” which offers white and yellow kernels mixed on the same cob. This is caused by cross pollination between the two varieties. You can also find red corn fresh on the market, as well as fresh Indian corn. Both of these are edible and fairly sweet, but not as flavorful as the common varieties, so they remain more of a novelty. As new varieties continue to be developed, we may well see more flavorful red and Indian corn before long!
Corn is native to North, Central and South America. The Indians of the Western hemisphere had grown corn for thousands of years before Christopher Columbus' voyage to North America. In ancient Indian villages, petrified corncobs have been discovered that are over 5,000 years old. Columbus traded with the Indians and took corn back to Spain. From there is traveled to other areas of Western Europe, and it wasn’t too long before the versatile ears were singing in tune with Johnny Cash: “I’ve Been Everywhere.”
Although there are 200 recorded varieties of corn, sweet corn is its own variety, distinguished from the others by a single gene, which causes the endosperm of the seed to accumulate twice as much sugar than normal. Historians believe that sweet corn was first cultivated around 1600 by Iroquois Indians along the St. Lawrence River in New York, though it didn’t become widely popular until more than a century later. The Iroquois called sweet corn “Papoon.” Native Americans taught the early settlers how to plant, store and prepare corn. In fact, it was corn that saved the settlers from almost certain starvation their first winter in America.
When selecting fresh corn, look for plump, firm ears. (Isn't it weird how we name our vegetables and fruits after body parts? An ear of corn, a hand of bananas, ribs of celery, the heart of artichokes, a head of lettuce, navel oranges… I could go on, but that might get too corny. Ha!) Back to the produce stand: look at the husks and make sure they are green and moist. Feel the ear for any sunken areas that may be hiding under the husks. The silk should be white or yellowish green. At times there may be a small amount of browning at the ends, but the rest should be fresh and healthy. Pull the husks back about ¼ of the way to reveal the tip of the ear. The kernels should be firm, plump and shiny. Avoid sunken kernels, dry or yellowish husks and black-spotted husks. These are signs of age and indicate that the corn is better suited for cattle. There is no reason for corn like this to be on the rack, especially this time of year when the fresh harvest is in.
Growing perfect organic corn is a challenge, since an organic mineral oil has to be injected into the tip of each ear to keep the corn worms out. This is a tedious task and the injections also have to be timed properly, when the corn is at just the right stage. Other organic corn farming practices include Integrated Pest Management (IPM), which uses beneficial insects to help control pests. Organic corn is also very sensitive to soil temperature and the length of daylight hours, making it more labor-intensive to farm. This should answer the common question of why organic corn is more expensive than conventional corn.
Sweet corn really is delicious, nourishing and perfectly safe to eat raw as well as cooked. The average ear has just 75 calories and delivers three grams of protein and a gram of dietary fiber. Happy crunching!
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Iceberg Wege Salad
Celebrate summer with a cool, crisp wedge of iceberg lettuce topped with your favorite blue cheese dressing, crumbled bacon,cherry tomatoes and thin slices of sweet red onion. Amazing!
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Summer Squash with Fennel
When the farmers market provides a bounty of fennel, squash, tomatoes and fresh basil, foods other than vegetables almost seem superfluous. This tasty mixture works well as a side dish, but can also claim center stage as a light summer supper. Recipe
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Heirloom Tomato Salad
with Basil
When choosing heirloom tomatoes, toss out all of your usual expectations for uniform scarlet orbs. In a riot of weird shapes and exotic colorations, these beauties elevate a simple summer salad to the level or art. Don’t worry about precise proportions for the dressing—simply slice, sprinkle and enjoy. Recipe
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| Fresh Peach Pie |
There are those who say there’s nothing better than a peak-season peach, just eaten out of hand. They’ve obviously never had a slice of this unbaked pie, which was created to showcase the simple splendor of ripe peaches in the raw. Recipe
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Panzanella—Mediterranean Bread Salad
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This classic Mediterranean salad combines crusty bread with fresh garden vegetables in a simple vinaigrette. To maintain the delicious contrast of textures, toss it together shortly before serving. Recipe
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Watermelon, Feta, and Kalamata Olive Salad
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This Mediterranean classic is one of my all-time summer favorites. I love the contrast of sweet, cool watermelon against salty cheese and olives. Fresh mint adds the perfect note to pull it all together. Exquisite! Recipe
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