Spur-of the-moment weekend meals are a great way to catch up with old friends before facing the chaos of the coming week. So when two of my favorites called from Sonoma, I invited them for dinner on their way home to the city. I wanted super simple food packed with the flavors of the season and ready to go when they arrived. That way, I could join in the fun rather than being stuck fussing with the food.

Let’s face it, kitchens are like ovens with the summer heat, so I headed outdoors to the garden and prepared my trusty grill. Rooting through the freezer, I found a large bag of shrimp from Trader Joe’s that was perfect for my spicy, marinated Mexican shrimp. I reached for some gorgeous fresh produce on hand from the farmer’s market and a few pantry items, and dinner was on its way.

The marinade and dipping sauce is ridiculously simple. Start with a few chipotle chiles in adobo sauce (from a can), add tomato juice and blitz in a blender. Done. The heat is controlled by the ratio of chiles to juice. While I prefer two or three chiles, go ahead and blow out your eyeballs with the entire can if you want. But don’t say I didn’t warn you.

The sauce is intensely flavored so I pair the shrimp with an equally flavorful black bean and sweet corn salad with roasted peppers, tomatoes, onions, chiles and cilantro. A simple lime dressing provides plenty of zest. Temper it all with a pot of Basmati rice with colorful shards of orange carrot.

When my friends arrived at sunset, I guided them to the garden where the sizzling grill and crickets competed for attention. Soon the air was filled with happy conversation, laughter and the smacking sounds of lusty eaters. I slipped away to organize dessert; chilled, sweet watermelon—simple summer goodness. I cut the melon into bite-sized pieces, spritzed them with fresh lime juice, and piled the brilliant pink cubes into pretty, pretty long-stemmed glasses. A very cool ending to a perfect warm evening.

How to Buy, Store, and Clean Shrimp
Shrimp is extremely perishable and typically frozen at sea before fishermen transport their catches to the mainland. Local markets sell both frozen and thawed by size and number per pound. Commercial names may vary slightly, but the numbers are fairly standard.

Extra or super colossal 10 per pound
Colossal 12
Colossal 15
Extra jumbo 16–20
Jumbo 21–25
Extra large 26–30
Large 31–35
Medium large 36–40
Medium 41–50
Small 51–60
Extra small 61–70

Unless you’re buying it frozen, purchase shrimp on the day you plan to cook.

Storing and Thawing Shrimp
Keep frozen shrimp in the freezer until you’re ready to use it. To thaw, place the shrimp in a colander and run cold water over them just until no longer frozen. Never let them soak in water, or you’ll lose significant flavor. For safety and quality, never defrost the shrimp at room temperature or in a microwave.

If you purchased thawed shrimp at the market, place them in a bowl set over a larger bowl filled with ice before refrigerating. (Most refrigerators are not cold enough on their own to keep shrimp in peak condition.) Store for 24 hours or less.

Cleaning Shrimp
Larger shrimp have dark black “veins” (actually the shrimp’s digestive tract) on their backs that should be removed. The veins are gritty, and can ruin the eating experience with a dirty taste. Deveining is easy but time consuming. If you’re in a hurry, consider purchasing pre-deveined shrimp from your fish monger. If you’re cleaning them yourself, here’s how:

1. If the shrimp still has its head on, grasp firmly and snap it off. Pull back the legs and shell to remove them.

2. Slip off the tail, if desired. (You may leave this on for certain recipes.)

3. Use a small, sharp knife to make a shallow cut along the back edge of the shrimp, exposing the dark “vein.”

4. Scrape out the vein with the tip of your knife. This is most easily accomplished while holding the shrimp under fast-running water.

5. Pat the shrimp dry and proceed with your recipe or store as directed above.

Print out my recipes for your convenience.

Camarones a la Diabla

Sweet Corn and Black Bean Salad

Basmati Rice

Trips to the farmers market always yield a treasure or two that aren’t on my shopping list. So when a vendor approached with a large sample platter of sliced, golden peaches I couldn’t resist. They were perfectly ripe, packed with flavor and dripping juice. Pie! They would make an amazing fresh peach pie.

I savored a second sample and started creating the recipe in my head. This pie would be stacked high with glazed, sliced peaches in a basic pre-baked crust. Fruit this good is best showcased with a simple glaze made from peaches, sugar and water and thickened with cornstarch. No need for a lot of spice here—let the pure peach flavor shine. And the topping—clouds of whipped sweet cream generously spooned on each slice. Perfection!

Making my way through the crowds to the peach stand, I was disappointed to see that not all of the fruit was as ripe as the samples. Maybe this pie wasn’t going to happen anytime soon. Since I was going to need 10 to 12 medium-large peaches for both the glaze and filling, I asked the salesperson for help. She set about selecting the best fruit for today’s project. “We’ve sold a lot of peaches today and had to put out a new batch—some are less ripe.” After checking her reserves, she found what I needed and rang them up. I thanked her and headed home to start the pie.

Back in the kitchen, the peaches needed skinning. Rather than using a knife or peeler—which seems to waste a lot of fruit—I rely on this easy blanching method:

1. Remove the peach stem with your fingers.

2. Cut an “X” into the bottom of the fruit.

3. Submerge the peach in a pan of boiling water for 10 to 30 seconds. They are ready when the skin around the “X” begins to curl. A ripe fruit peels more quickly than an under-ripe one.

4. Remove the peach with a slotted spoon and place it in a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking and loosen the skin.

5. Slip the skin off with your fingers or a paring knife.

Peeling and slicing the peaches for this luscious pie is a quick process. And it’s especially satisfying to breathe in their intoxicating scent that soon permeates the kitchen as you work.

Assembling the pie is a breeze. Have your peach glaze and pre-baked crust ready and then build the pie in layers. I like arranging the peach slices in a pretty circular design, and then slathering it was a generous coating of the glaze before starting the next layer. My biggest problem is not eating the peaches while I work. It’s utterly hopeless—all those juicy bits and pieces of fruit just waiting to be plucked from the bowl. Who can resist?

Once the pie is finished and chilled through, I top each slice with a dollop of freshly whipped cream. Here have a piece. Close your eyes and savor the moment: this is the essence of great summer eating.

Print a copy of my Fresh Peach Pie recipe and illustrated, step-by-step How To Peel Peaches for your convenience.