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Baking Expert
Catherine Christiansen
Scrumptious
Caramel Cheesecake
This dessert is a doozy—creamy, deep golden caramel cheesecake under homemade marshmallow and caramel sauces and the coup de grace, salty peanuts. The idea was inspired by a visit last month to Nancy Silverton’s Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles, where every course raucously celebrated flavor, but the dessert seriously tickled my fancy. Caramel copetta (gelato) drizzled with caramel and marshmallow and finished with salty Spanish peanuts. It had it all—warm, cold, salty, sweet, fluffy, gooey and crunchy.
With the holidays coming, I wanted to translate those flavors into a dessert for a crowd, something that would be easy to make ahead. I took a basic cheesecake recipe and instead of adding sugar, added the richest darkest caramel sauce I could muster. The secret to a dark caramel is pushing the sugar to the edge of nutty brown without letting it burn. Once it has reached a luscious sable color, pour in the warm cream and stir. (More than likely you will end up with a few sugar lumps; just return the caramel to low heat and cook until the lumps dissolve. Have no fear; this just makes the caramel even richer.)
I tried a few different crusts, gingersnap, peanut, even chocolate, but the classic graham won out, adding warm flavor without overpowering the key ingredients.
The marshmallow fluff begins with super-whipped egg whites, corn syrup – go figure. (You can use pasteurized whites if you prefer.) Whip, whip, whip until the mixture is blindingly white and billowy. (Think unicorn’s mane.) Sift in some powdered sugar and a healthy dash of vanilla and voila! Fluff. And whatever you do, don’t omit the peanuts; these salty, skin-on nuts add the perfect rustic crunch. Sprinkle joyously and liberally.
The purpose of the trip to LA was to see Neil Diamond at the Hollywood Bowl with one of my best friends. After every song, 67-year-old rocker Neil would thrust his fist in the air and say “oh, yes!” That’s sort of how I feel about this cheesecake.
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