Dan Avakian
Getting Fresh
Kennebec Potatoes
Watercress
From the very beginning of my produce venture in the mid-seventies, I was always interested in what customers were doing with the produce items that they purchased. Many conversations were exchanged as they shopped and I worked. Many recipes were written down and brought back to me on their next produce shopping trip. Some were old family recipes and others taken from books or magazines. Obviously the handed down family recipes were more meaningful to me.
One recipe that is as simple as a peanut butter and jelly sandwich still sticks out to me because it is so tasty. It didn’t come from a customer, but was given to me by Graham Kerr during a pre-radio interview conversation; Take a good handful of Watercress, mix it in a bowl with your favorite vinaigrette, stuff it into a tortilla, roll it up and eat it. It is fabulous!
Fresh Watercress is usually purchased by those who know the item well, however first time users will either repeat the purchase or never touch it again. It’s sharp, peppery flavored leaves and tender texture make it versatile to many preparation methods from sandwiches made famous by the Brits to soup, pesto, cheese platters, dips even Kim Chee and a plethora of fine salads.
This succulent member of the mustard family is found growing wild along clear streams of flowing water where there is plenty of limestone, bright sunlight and cool water.
It dates back thousands of years toPersiawhere it was eaten with fresh baked bread.
Throughout history it has been used for culinary and medicinal purposes. The Greeks and the Romans both used it as blood a cleanser and the Chinese used it similarly.
Modern production methods find commercial watercress growing hydroponically in greenhouses or outside in flooded beds. Seeds are sown in moist soil ditches fertilized with compost. Gravel or sometime oyster shells or a mixture of the two is added to the bottom of the ditch so that the roots can take hold. As soon as the watercress starts to sprout flowing water is added to the ditch. This method was developed in the 1800’s inEnglandwhere street vendors sold it by the bunch in the spring. The popularity of this aquatic green made its way here toAmericaby European immigrants who first planted it along creeks. Today in England National Watercress week happens every May along with a full blown watercress festival.
Watercress should not be confused withUplandcress which is used similarly and grows in soil rather than creeks. It is found mostly in restaurants, but is very simple to grow in your own back yard.
Watercress in the store is sold by the bunch with either the roots still attached or cut and bunched. The rooted watercress is grown in greenhouses, has very thin edible stems and is pale green in color. Outdoor watercress is sold without the roots attached and has thicker, yet still very edible stems. This watercress is deep and vibrant in color. Chefs differ as to which one they prefer. Some like the vibrant green color, others prefer the smaller stems. Both are absolutely delicious.
When it comes to nutrition watercress is up at the top of the list rich in vitamin C, B2, A, D, and E. It is also rich in Calcium, potassium, and iron as well as a significant source of sulphur and chloride.
When purchasing watercress in the store look for fresh green leaves; yellowing or wilting are signs of age. Watercress does not have an extended shelf life, so it should be used within a few days of purchase. To get maximum life out of the plant remove the rubber band, separate the bunch and wash it. After is has drained put the loose cress in a Ziploc bag and remove all the air with a straw. Keep it sealed and only remove the amount that you will be using at that moment and place it back into the refrigerator instantly. This method will keep your watercress fresh for up to three days.
I have heard several recipes from customers over the years that range from a simple platter of Watercress and brie cheese to creamy watercress soup with nutmeg. Other recipes that were given to me are watercress and chicken salad and Asparagus, strawberry and watercress salad. Watercress goes great with fish and seafood, other vegetables, pork, beef, lamb and makes a great turkey, avocado and watercress sandwich.
I still have many recipes handwritten on various sizes of papers, several from folks who clearly are not with us anymore due to their advanced age at the time as well as plenty from folks who are still shopping with me today, and, just as I was back in the 70’s, I’m still interested in how my customers are preparing their fresh produce. Watercress clearly is one of my favorites. Look for watercress year round in the stores.
Belgian Endive:
A Complicated Vegetable that’s Simply Delicious
As far back as I can remember, endive and chicory have been the subject of an intense and confusing identity debate. And for good reason; the two names are used somewhat interchangeably for an assortment of edible leaves and roots that vary significantly in flavor and appearance, but all belong to the same basic plant family.
For many Americans, the leaves of the endive plan—curly, green and slightly bitter—are known as “chicory.” Others call the greens “frisee,” and still others may call them “endive.” To complicate matters, “chicory” also refers to the root of the endive plant, which is often roasted, ground and used to make New Orleans style coffee.
Although related to all of the above, our topic today—Belgian endive— is another vegetable entirely. It is the delicate white shoot of the endive (or chicory) root, cultivated through a labor-intensive process and nurtured to harvest in complete darkness. Seeds are sown in the spring, and by fall large roots similar in shape to carrots are dug out of the ground. The roots are then placed in cold storage. Throughout the year, as needed, roots are removed from the cold storage facility and placed in growing trays. The trays are placed in dark, humid rooms to spur the growth of tender, creamy white leaves. The method is called “forcing,” and requires daily irrigation for three weeks along with a special fertilizer solution. Absolutely no pesticides are used during this process, which helps create a pure and clean shoot. When they reach maturity, the leaves are picked, trimmed, packed and sent to the market for grocers and fine dining. Because the roots produce Belgian endive shoots only once in their lifetime, they are discarded or in some cases sold to manufacturers forNew Orleansstyle coffee.
So how in the world did this method of growing come about in the first place? Who would imagine that you could dig up a root, re-bury it and produce such a delicacy? Well, in the mid 1800’s a professional gardener planted some chicory plants in his cellar for experimentation. Later in the season his assistant discovered little white shoots coming up from each root, and Belgian endive was born. Experts in the field dispute whether Belgian endive actually originated in Belgium, or is so named because at one time Belgium was the world’s largest producer of this fine, delicate pearl. I wouldn’t let the technicalities get in the way of enjoying such a treasure.
In France endive is pronounced, “on-deev”. Here in theU.S., the prized white shoots are called Belgian endive, French endive, or simply endive. In Great Britain, they’re Belgian chicory, and it Belgium the name is “witloof” (meaning white leaf.) In some places, Belgian endive is even revered with the title “white gold.” No wonder in my years as a produce retailer I’ve seen countless instances of customer and clerk confusion surrounding this vegetable!
Be cautious when selecting Belgian endive in the store, since this item turns rancid fast. The shoot should always be white, with a hint of yellow around the edge of the leaves. Green is a sign of age and too much light exposure. The shoots should be firm and vibrant, without brown spots, and the leaves should be closed at the tips
The mildly pungent yet sweet leaves make a great salad with watercress, arugula and light, fruity, but not sweet, vinaigrette. The shoots can also be cooked whole. Sometimes they are cut in half, drizzled with olive oil and grilled. Another method is to core the shoot and stuff it with goat cheese, bleu cheese or crab. An old common recipe called “slit shoots” consists of slit shoots stuffed with Swiss cheese and high-quality cured ham and broiled for 20 minutes.
Nutritional value of Belgian endive: zilch; these babies are pure enjoyment. However, they are low in calories and sodium, so they won’t do you any harm.
If you’re passed up Belgian endive in the store because you just didn’t know anything about it, now’s the moment to give it a try. Then you, too, can join in the dialogue about the difference between endive and chicory. After all these years, I’ve learned to just let folks call it what they want to, and focus on the eating. Belgian endive is available year round from California and imported fromBelgium.
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You may also enjoy Dan’s Fresh Produce website.
Recipes by Barbara Adams Beyond Wonderful.
