Dan Avakian
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February Spotlight: Avocados
This is the time of year for new crop California Hass avocados. Folks will be happy to see them on the produce stand again because since September of last year (end of theCaliforniaseason) we have had only Chilean and Mexican avocados available to us. However new crop avocados will not have the oil content that the existing Chilean and Mexican avocados will have, so although the California crop is most desired. The imported fruit will be a better eating experience, for now. Late next month after theCaliforniafruit has been on the tree longer the oil content will be right where it needs to be for a more pleasurable eating experience. TheCaliforniaseason will then take us through September.
Now, don’t get me wrong theCaliforniaavocados are very good, but just more on the watery side than the oily side. This is also the reason why we go all summer long with great avocados then in September we get slammed with horrid watery avocados. The reason for this sudden change is a reverse of what we are experiencing now. In September when we are finished with our domestic supply,ChileandMexicomove into the market. Their avocados are new crop at that time so they are watery and even stringy at times. It takes a while to “oil up.” So by this time of the year, they are perfect. The huge difference is that when ourCaliforniaavocados are watery, they are pretty darned good. When the Chilean and Mexican fruit is watery it is less desired. So there is an “in between time” that if we really have to have them, we settle for what’s available.
If all this is confusing to you, we will post a video soon explaining this difference. For now we have a choice, support the Californiagrowers and sacrifice the eating experience or buy the imported stuff and have a more pleasurable eating experience. It’s your choice. At my market I carry both Californiaand imported until the Californiaseason is in full swing and then I drop the imports, the good news it that this is a temporary situation.
Belgian Endive:
A Complicated Vegetable that’s Simply Delicious
As far back as I can remember, endive and chicory have been the subject of an intense and confusing identity debate. And for good reason; the two names are used somewhat interchangeably for an assortment of edible leaves and roots that vary significantly in flavor and appearance, but all belong to the same basic plant family.
For many Americans, the leaves of the endive plan—curly, green and slightly bitter—are known as “chicory.” Others call the greens “frisee,” and still others may call them “endive.” To complicate matters, “chicory” also refers to the root of the endive plant, which is often roasted, ground and used to make New Orleans style coffee.
Although related to all of the above, our topic today—Belgian endive— is another vegetable entirely. It is the delicate white shoot of the endive (or chicory) root, cultivated through a labor-intensive process and nurtured to harvest in complete darkness. Seeds are sown in the spring, and by fall large roots similar in shape to carrots are dug out of the ground. The roots are then placed in cold storage. Throughout the year, as needed, roots are removed from the cold storage facility and placed in growing trays. The trays are placed in dark, humid rooms to spur the growth of tender, creamy white leaves. The method is called “forcing,” and requires daily irrigation for three weeks along with a special fertilizer solution. Absolutely no pesticides are used during this process, which helps create a pure and clean shoot. When they reach maturity, the leaves are picked, trimmed, packed and sent to the market for grocers and fine dining. Because the roots produce Belgian endive shoots only once in their lifetime, they are discarded or in some cases sold to manufacturers forNew Orleansstyle coffee.
So how in the world did this method of growing come about in the first place? Who would imagine that you could dig up a root, re-bury it and produce such a delicacy? Well, in the mid 1800’s a professional gardener planted some chicory plants in his cellar for experimentation. Later in the season his assistant discovered little white shoots coming up from each root, and Belgian endive was born. Experts in the field dispute whether Belgian endive actually originated in Belgium, or is so named because at one time Belgium was the world’s largest producer of this fine, delicate pearl. I wouldn’t let the technicalities get in the way of enjoying such a treasure.
In France endive is pronounced, “on-deev”. Here in theU.S., the prized white shoots are called Belgian endive, French endive, or simply endive. In Great Britain, they’re Belgian chicory, and it Belgium the name is “witloof” (meaning white leaf.) In some places, Belgian endive is even revered with the title “white gold.” No wonder in my years as a produce retailer I’ve seen countless instances of customer and clerk confusion surrounding this vegetable!
Be cautious when selecting Belgian endive in the store, since this item turns rancid fast. The shoot should always be white, with a hint of yellow around the edge of the leaves. Green is a sign of age and too much light exposure. The shoots should be firm and vibrant, without brown spots, and the leaves should be closed at the tips
The mildly pungent yet sweet leaves make a great salad with watercress, arugula and light, fruity, but not sweet, vinaigrette. The shoots can also be cooked whole. Sometimes they are cut in half, drizzled with olive oil and grilled. Another method is to core the shoot and stuff it with goat cheese, bleu cheese or crab. An old common recipe called “slit shoots” consists of slit shoots stuffed with Swiss cheese and high-quality cured ham and broiled for 20 minutes.
Nutritional value of Belgian endive: zilch; these babies are pure enjoyment. However, they are low in calories and sodium, so they won’t do you any harm.
If you’re passed up Belgian endive in the store because you just didn’t know anything about it, now’s the moment to give it a try. Then you, too, can join in the dialogue about the difference between endive and chicory. After all these years, I’ve learned to just let folks call it what they want to, and focus on the eating. Belgian endive is available year round from California and imported fromBelgium.
Seasonal Produce Videos
The Pomelo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZcKcvqaHL0
You may also enjoy Dan’s Fresh Produce website.
Recipes by Barbara Adams Beyond Wonderful.
