Fierce winter storms hit the San Francisco Bay Area and Northern California during the last several days and left over a million people without electricity. Amid radio reports of those struggling without adequate supplies or food, my family and I were grateful for each other—and the warmth of a gas-powered stove and water heater.

Family members took refuge at my house after theirs had been without power for two days. It’s amazing how a group of tired, grumpy adults and screaming kids comes together when warmed by a roaring fire, candle light, free-flowing coffee, and hot showers. Spirits soared at dinner with a big pot of cheese fondue and a large basket of sourdough bread cubes for dipping. The cold melted away as everyone dipped, twirled, and ate their cheesy morsels, told storm stories, and began laughing easily in the embrace of love and warmth.

My favorite cheese fondue recipe comes from our Beyond Wonderful Cheese Expert, Mark Todd, who first introduced me to the delicacy in its authentic form. Classic cheese fondue holds to a basic formula: one pound of cheese with two cups of dry white wine, seasonings, Kirschwasser liqueur and cornstarch to thicken the mixture.

Mark and I prefer Allgäuer Bergkäse and Appenzeller cheeses available at select specialty stores. You can substitute Emmental Swiss and Gruyere or try Comte, Beauford, or Raclette, found in good supermarkets. All of these alpine cheeses have similar cooking characteristics and are best when mixed with a dry white wine. The cornstarch and the acid in the kirschwasser are key for maintaining a smooth emulsion. Keep in mind that the world does not come to an end if the sauce breaks. Just add one teaspoon to one tablespoon of fresh lemon juice to restore the proper acidic balance.

…and one last thing—watch the napkins when eating by candle light. One of ours caught fire and caused almost as much excitement as the storm.

Mark Todd’s Alpine Fondue

Serves 8–12 as an appetizer, or 4 as a main course

Ingredients

2 cups (8 ounces) Allgäuer Bergkäse, shredded

2 cups (8 ounces) Appenzeller, shredded

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon Coleman’s dry mustard

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

1 clove garlic, split

2 cups dry to off-dry white wine (such as premium German Spätlese)

3 tablespoons Kirschwasser

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon Hungarian hot paprika

~ cubed crusty bread for dipping

~ bite-sized vegetables and fruit for dipping

NOTE: You may reduce the amount of wine by 1/2 cup without compromising the acid balance between the wine and cheese. If the fondue breaks, add a small amount of lemon juice (one teaspoon to one tablespoon) and whisk vigorously to restore the emulsion.

Directions

1. Place the shredded cheese in a medium bowl and toss with the cornstarch, mustard, and pepper.

2. Set a double boiler over medium-high heat and bring the water to a lively simmer.

3. Rub the heated pot liberally with the garlic clove and discard.

4. Pour the wine into the pot and heat until barely simmering—do not boil.

5. Stir in the Kirschwasser.

6. Add the cheese by handfuls, stirring constantly in one direction until well integrated. Adjust the heat as required to maintain a temperature just hot enough to melt the cheese. Never boil the fondue.

7. Once you achieve a smooth emulsion of melted cheese and wine, add the nutmeg and paprika.

8. Pour the mixture into a fondue pot with a heat source, or carefully wrap the double boiler with a kitchen towel and serve. The water below the pot will keep the fondue hot.

Preparation time: Approximately 15 minutes.