Whip a dip so good you’ll flip! <br>Strawberry Cheesecake Dip - Mulligatawny Soup - Chocolate Mousse Pie </br>Little Piece of my Heart - Dressed to Impress; Mastering Classic Vinaigrette - Pop Quiz! What’s the best way to uncork Champagne?  </br> Michael DeLoach -

A Garden to Grow On

Late last September Sammy and I went to our local nursery in search of winter greens and herbs for my kitchen garden. He ran about exploring, sniffing flowers and stomping in puddles. I realized that this was the perfect time to start teaching him how to grow his food—plus a few life lessons.

We went home with our plants and a large pot for “Sammy’s Garden.” He helped fill it with potting soil and then gently removed each plant from its container. “What’s this?” Tiny fingers held up a plant with hairy roots flowing freely. We talked about how they absorb food and water and make the plants grow. He placed them in the pot, covered the roots, and gave them a drink.

Sammy checked his “babies” daily and took great pride watering and feeding them. As they grew, so did his joy for work well done. When the rainy season started, he realized he didn’t need to water them so much. We talked of plants and trees and clouds and rain. Always there were more questions which I answered with simple answers that satisfied his immediate curiosity.

This weekend, I sent him to the garden with his basket to harvest the first leaves for a salad. The picking went well until he realized that we planned to eat them. “No! You can’t eat my babies!” Gently, I reminded him that we grow food to nourish our bodies and souls—but he would have none of it.

Several days later, I took him to the local farmer’s market to shop for dinner. We looked at familiar things—beets, carrots, and lettuce. I showed him the hairy roots on the beets and reminded him that they grew in the soil like his babies. He was interested but didn’t say much.

This weekend we’ll make a simple salad using store-bought vegetables. Maybe he’ll offer a few home-grown leaves. Maybe not.

Sammy’s garden is his beginning awareness of the Earth and all its inter-connectedness. As he grows up, he’ll look forward to ripe, seasonal food prepared with love and care. Greater topics like sustainable organic farming, conservation, and global warming will make more sense with a core understanding of how things work. Sammy will know that to grow and thrive, we must be effective stewards of this planet and teach the next generation to appreciate the origins of our food.

Taking Stock: Simmering Up for Winter

Last weekend’s destructive storm and power outage had me checking my freezer for spoilage. Happily, everything including my “dead birds” shelf of chicken carcasses was safe. Since the shelf was chock full, I decided to make a huge vat of stock in preparation for more fierce weather yet to come.

As it turns out, that was a great idea. Another storm yesterday and continued rain today has caused still more Bay Area outages—it’s soup weather for sure.

Homemade stock is the perfect thing to make during horrible winter weather for lots of reasons. First and most obvious, it’s the base for fabulous soups, stews, and sauces—which is exactly what you’ll want to eat when it’s nasty outside. The stock’s lengthy four-hour cooking time warms the kitchen, while its aroma comforts the soul and helps erase the gloom of winter.

I’ll turn my stock into three soups this week. Today it’s Spicy Cauliflower-Potato with an exotic Indian flair. Tomorrow the kids get homemade Chicken Vegetable Alphabet soup, and will spend most of lunch identifying their letters. For the weekend, there’s nothing better than a huge pot of Corn Chowder on the stove to keep everyone going.

This stock is beyond easy. Don’t worry too much about the proportions, and know that the recipe can easily be reduced or increased depending on what you’ve got on hand. I’ve made small batches with just one carcass and up to 40 quarts with my flock of dead birds. I used a 12-quart pot for this latest batch.

Barbara’s Chicken Stock

4 chicken carcasses with bits and skin
~ cold water
1 large onion
1 head garlic
2 stalks celery
2 carrots
10 whole cloves
20–25 whole peppercorns
1 bay leaf

Directions

1. Place the chicken carcasses in the stockpot and fill it with cold water.

2. Halve the onion, leaving the skin on (it adds color to the stock). Cut the garlic in half across its center. Add both to the stockpot.

3. Cut the celery and carrot into three or four large pieces and add them to the brew.

4. Toss in the cloves, peppercorns, and bay leaf.

5. Turn the heat to medium-high and bring the stock to a lively simmer. Do not boil it, however, or it will become cloudy.

6. Notice that scum floats to the surface as the stock begins to simmer. These are proteins and easily removed with a slotted spoon.

7. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 3 ½4 hours. The stock is ready when the broth is intensely flavorful.

8. Remove the chicken bones and pieces and set aside

9. Cool the stock to room temperature, then strain through a large sieve.

10. Refrigerate overnight, then remove and discard the fat that has risen and solidified on the surface of the stock.

11. For convenient storage, freeze stock in small portions in ice cube trays or zip-lock bags, then thaw just what you need for everyday use.

Lights Out: Fire Up the Cheese Fondue

Fierce winter storms hit the San Francisco Bay Area and Northern California during the last several days and left over a million people without electricity. Amid radio reports of those struggling without adequate supplies or food, my family and I were grateful for each otherand the warmth of a gas-powered stove and water heater.

Family members took refuge at my house after theirs had been without power for two days. It’s amazing how a group of tired, grumpy adults and screaming kids comes together when warmed by a roaring fire, candle light, free-flowing coffee, and hot showers. Spirits soared at dinner with a big pot of cheese fondue and a large basket of sourdough bread cubes for dipping. The cold melted away as everyone dipped, twirled, and ate their cheesy morsels, told storm stories, and began laughing easily in the embrace of love and warmth.

My favorite cheese fondue recipe comes from our Beyond Wonderful Cheese Expert, Mark Todd, who first introduced me to the delicacy in its authentic form. Classic cheese fondue holds to a basic formula: one pound of cheese with two cups of dry white wine, seasonings, Kirschwasser liqueur and cornstarch to thicken the mixture.

Mark and I prefer Allgäuer Bergkäse and Appenzeller cheeses available at select specialty stores. You can substitute Emmental Swiss and Gruyere or try Comte, Beauford, or Raclette, found in good supermarkets. All of these alpine cheeses have similar cooking characteristics and are best when mixed with a dry white wine. The cornstarch and the acid in the kirschwasser are key for maintaining a smooth emulsion. Keep in mind that the world does not come to an end if the sauce breaks. Just add one teaspoon to one tablespoon of fresh lemon juice to restore the proper acidic balance.

…and one last thing—watch the napkins when eating by candle light. One of ours caught fire and caused almost as much excitement as the storm.

Mark Todd’s Alpine Fondue

Serves 8–12 as an appetizer, or 4 as a main course

Ingredients

2 cups (8 ounces) Allgäuer Bergkäse, shredded

2 cups (8 ounces) Appenzeller, shredded

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon Coleman’s dry mustard

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

1 clove garlic, split

2 cups dry to off-dry white wine (such as premium German Spätlese)

3 tablespoons Kirschwasser

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon Hungarian hot paprika

~ cubed crusty bread for dipping

~ bite-sized vegetables and fruit for dipping

NOTE: You may reduce the amount of wine by 1/2 cup without compromising the acid balance between the wine and cheese. If the fondue breaks, add a small amount of lemon juice (one teaspoon to one tablespoon) and whisk vigorously to restore the emulsion.

Directions

  1. Place the shredded cheese in a medium bowl and toss with the cornstarch, mustard, and pepper.
  1. Set a double boiler over medium-high heat and bring the water to a lively simmer.
  1. Rub the heated pot liberally with the garlic clove and discard.
  1. Pour the wine into the pot and heat until barely simmering—do not boil.
  1. Stir in the Kirschwasser.
  1. Add the cheese by handfuls, stirring constantly in one direction until well integrated. Adjust the heat as required to maintain a temperature just hot enough to melt the cheese. Never boil the fondue.
  1. Once you achieve a smooth emulsion of melted cheese and wine, add the nutmeg and paprika.
  1. Pour the mixture into a fondue pot with a heat source, or carefully wrap the double boiler with a kitchen towel and serve. The water below the pot will keep the fondue hot.

Preparation time: Approximately 15 minutes.

 

 

 

 

Adventures in Produce

Have you ever been excited by Brussels sprouts? Then you haven’t hung out with produce expert, Dan Avakian at his open-air market in the East Bay across from San Francisco. My photographer and I were just there for our monthly photo shoot for Dan’s Beyond Wonderful column.

Dan stocks a wide selection of produce that he regularly picks up from local farms. I’m spoiled with fruits and vegetables picked at their peak when flavor and nutrition is best. This month, it’s all about winter fruits and vegetables—dates, chestnuts, blood oranges, tangerines, persimmons, root vegetables and Brussels sprouts.

Locals, restaurateurs and chefs regularly shop here and are always greeted by this imposing man with a friendly, “Hi, how ya doing?” All are comfortable asking him questions, which he answers easily. I was happy to run into Guido Ferro, our International Home Chef, Italy, who lives close by and was doing his weekend shopping.

I’m roasting everything theses days and wanted to try Brussels sprouts, but was quickly set straight by my two friends. Dan armed himself with large stalk of fresh Brussels sprouts, swung high and yelled, “Aaargh! Don’t roast them.” Guido agreed. Both insisted that I blanch them in hot, salted water for a minute or two, then put them in a very hot skillet, toss them with olive oil, salt, pepper and just a smidge of balsamic vinegar—not too much. They said I could add a little water if things get too dry. Dan likes them halved and blackened, while Guido cooks them whole until crisp.

I bought the Brussels sprouts, along with a basket full of roasting-friendly root vegetables like purple potatoes, red and gold beets, yams, sweet potatoes, parsnips, carrots, fennel, onions and lots of garlic. These are a cinch to prepare and fill the house with an incredibly delicious aroma. They are great with roasted meats, eaten by themselves or pureed into wonderful hot winter soups. Enjoy!

Barbara’s Lazy Day Roasted Root Veggies

Preheat your oven to 450-degrees.

  1. Peel the vegetables of your choice and cut them into bite-sized pieces.
  2. Sprinkle with olive oil salt, and pepper. Toss to coat evenly.
  3. Arrange the vegetables on a baking sheet in a single layer, so that they don’t touch. Add a few sprigs of fresh rosemary or a generous sprinkling of the dried herb.
  4. Roast in the preheated oven for 20 minutes. Stir and continue roasting for 10 minutes more, or until tender.

In Line with Rachel Ray: Just in Time Book Signing

Just before noon on Sunday, Rachel Ray came to the Book Passage, my favorite local bookstore, to sign copies of Just in Timeher latest number one cookbook on the New York Times Advice Best-Seller List.

I joined hundreds of eager fans in line to glimpse the star. Fortunately, Book Passage has mastered large events like this, dividing the crowd into manageable sections with assigned signing times, so the wait doesn’t get too long. Nonetheless, groans were heard everywhere when the store staff announced that Rachel Ray was running late. For me, that meant more time to chat with the crowd about just what makes Ray such a well-loved culinary celebrity.

Many—myself included—are charmed by Ray’s sunny, down-to-earth style that skips pretension in favor of fun, simple recipes that anyone can master. One blushing boy of about sixteen also let on that Rachel Ray’s appeal extends way beyond the kitchen—and several other men in the crowd were quick to agree. A happy couple told the story of how their romance began over Rachel Ray’s Christmas Eve Pasta recipe. All around, the air was filled with the pleasant buzz of people brought together by a common enthusiasm for cooking.

More news drifts down the line—Rachel won’t be speaking, just signing books. My heart began to sink. This is a huge mistake that celebrity chefs sometimes make at these events. When fans take the time to show their support by attending a signing, they ought to be rewarded with a memorable experience. But sometimes instead we go home, book in hand, wondering “is that all there is?”

Rachel Ray missed a huge opportunity to really connect with her fans. A simple welcome—“hi, guys!”—would have thrilled the crowd. Instead, we got a lady running late for the stage and spending 5–10 impersonal seconds scribbling in each book.

I’ve attended a lot of book events over the years. My favorite celebrity chef was Alton Brown. He spoke with the group, took questions and signed a truckload of books. I was at the back of the line but he was gracious, engaging and funny. Those few seconds confirmed all of my positive opinions about this talented man.

Paula Dean’s event several weeks ago featured pre-signed books with an hour-long interview conducted by local radio personality, Gene Burns. She brought her husband, Michael and the three of them were hilarious. We went home feeling we’d gotten something memorable from Paula that couldn’t necessarily be found between the pages of her books.

My least favorite signing was Ina Garten’s earlier this year. While I love her show, books and recipes, the signing had so many restrictions that one wondered why they bothered to come. First, she would not speak to the crowd. Next, no cameras were allowed at the event, and she would only sign the book of the night. I understand the need to move people through quickly and cordially, but cookbook authors are professional communicators who’ve made careers out of sharing their knowledge and insights. An event like Ina Garten’s just feels a little stingy.

I certainly still count myself among Rachel Ray’s fans; her books and shows are of interest to me, and I admire her business acumen. But her signing missed the mark. Welcomed by a wonderful store and greeted by an adoring crowd, she should have given more in return.

Out in the parking lot, a couple that I remembered from Garten’s signing grumbled about another disconnected, impersonal event. “Why come? We could stay home and get everything from the Internet,” they complained. But like me, they’re not ready to give up altogether. Even the sunniest celeb can have an off day, and a beloved store like Book Passage is certainly worth a visit any day, signing or no. I left my acquaintances in the crowd with a cheerful “see you next time,”—and I meant it.