The last time that my family and I were in Paris we ate a lot of croque monsieurs; those tasty grilled ham and cheese sandwiches that you find in cafes and bars all over France. I was never sure if it was the ambience or my imagination, but they didn’t taste anything like our American counterparts. When my Parisian friends Alexandra Wagner, Antoine Coulon and Shefali Manilal—all great cooks—arrived at my home for their San Francisco holiday, I wanted to learn how to make these delectable sandwiches from the experts.

I stocked my refrigerator and pantry with everything needed for scrumptious meals and cooking sessions, especially ham and lots of different cheeses. Early the first morning, Alexandra—or Alx —joined me in the kitchen while I made coffee. We agreed the croque monsieurs could work just fine for breakfast.

With a cup of strong coffee in one hand, I rooted through the refrigerator and collected a loaf of good white sandwich bread, some thinly sliced plain ham and a block of gruyère cheese. Made in Switzerland, this cow’s milk cheese has a rich, nutty flavor and is the classic choice for croque monsieur.  But when Alx saw my choice she immediately objected. “No, no, let’s use the gouda. It’s what we use in my native Belgium and I prefer its flavor.” I grabbed the cheese, the butter dish and my trusty iron skillet. We were ready to go!

As we set up our assembly line, Alx told me that originally, French workers brought croque monsieurs to work and stowed them on their hot radiators so they would be crispy and oozing gooey cheese in time for their mid-day meal.

She took a slice of bread, added the cheese and ham and topped it with the second slice of bread. Alx spread soft butter on both sides of the sandwich while I melted butter in the skillet. As I grilled up the first four sandwiches, Alx suggested that we do a couple of variations. Her favorite included placing an extra slice of cheese on top and broiling it for several minutes until the cheese bubbled merrily.

While several sandwiches broiled, I learned that croque monsieurs first appeared on Paris menus in 1910, and that Marcel Proust mentioned them in his 1918 work, À la recherche du temps perdu. That was about all the chit-chat I had time for, because the heavenly smell of broiling cheese was pushing my appetite over the limit!

I was also eager to try croque madams—the same basic sandwich with a fried egg on top. Soon the skillet was sizzling as Alx fried a batch of eggs sunny-side-up and artfully slid them onto four more beautiful grilled sandwiches.

Unlike monsieur, madame appeared in 1960 and is said to have gotten her name because the egg resembled an old-fashioned woman’s hat or an ample breast. Personally, I figured some poor mother did it to get extra food into her kids. I giggled as it occurred to me that beautiful madame was on top of monsieur—way to go!

As the good morning kitchen smells wafted through the house, the family and guests sleepily made their way downstairs, poured steaming cups of coffee and came to consciousness. Antoine told how he and Shefali love to make croque monsieurs for late Sunday suppers after a busy weekend. “Many cafes and home cooks serve these on top of a small green salad dressed simply with oil and vinegar for a complete meal,” said Alx. I asked if they ever made croque monsieurs with bechamel or mornay sauce like I’d read about. Alx said, ”yes, you can do that but it’s so fussy. These are simple and so good.”

With a second cup of coffee, I was ready to take on a croque madam. I put one on a plate and headed to the garden where Alx joined me. The first bite was heavenly—everything I remembered. Suddenly, I was transported to the little Paris sidewalk cafe in the Marais District where we ate these every day. As I took another bite I pondered the difference between this and plain old ham-and-cheese. I noted that the thinly sliced boiled ham with gouda is more delicate that the thicker-cut, often smoked ham with cheddar or American cheese typically used here. And the secret ingredient—if there is one—is butter, butter, butter. No margarine or vegetable oil allowed, or you will never know the pleasures of monsieur and madame in that hungry, devouring, savoring-every-crumb kind of way.

Get printable recipes for the Croque Monsieur Sandwich and the Croque Madame Sandwich.

Gather a group of foodies and chefs together for a meal and the topic is always food: ingredients, recipes, war stories and tools. When award winning culinary author, columnist and teacher Marie Simmons showcased her 20th cookbook—Thing’s Cooks Love: Implements. Ingredients. Recipe—at the latest Cooks with Books event at the Left Bank Brasserie, the buzz never stopped.

This beautifully designed book is the first publication from Sur la Table, the Seattle-based culinary retailer. Its goal: to teach cooks–—both novice and accomplished—how to stock their kitchens, select and master tools and successfully prepare over 100 recipes. As the evening unfolded and I spent some time with the author and her book, it was easy to see why Marie Simmons was the perfect choice to write this.

The evening was warm and it seemed like the entire world was out enjoying life as guests began arriving. Marie chatted and laughed with those gathered as she took up residence at a table just outside the room and started signing books. While this was an intimate gathering, I’ve always wondered if authors get squirrely signing hundreds of books at larger signings. When I asked her about it, Marie laughed and related how she once signed what seemed like thousands at a giant warehouse store. A worker had set up a long table, opened the books to the proper page, and stacked them high the full length of the table. “Marie Simmons” soon degenerated into a scribble as she worked her way through the chore. Hearing this story again made me realize how fortunate I am to enjoy the richer author experience provided by great events like Cooks with Books.

As I watched her work and interact with fans, it was obvious that Marie is one of those rare people that immediately puts people at ease and makes them feel like they have her full attention. In the dining room, Marie’s table was filled with close friends there to support her, colleagues and CWB guests. Within minutes we all introduced ourselves and were in deep foodie conversations. All were hungry, munching on fresh bread and butter and enjoying wine created by Marie’s husband, John Simmons.

Marie joined us for the first course, a vibrant, red-orange tomato saffron broth with saffron cream. When she got up to speak, she announced that the tomatoes were left out of the recipe ingredients list in the book. “We all read the galleys and made corrections but somehow they got left out. Use three pounds of tomatoes when you make this at home.” It’s somehow nice to know that even the most seasoned pros aren’t above an editing error now and then!

Chef Scott Howard came to the room and we learned that he used heirloom tomatoes in the broth. One woman detected a slight hint of seafood and asked Chef what he used. “No seafood in the broth.” He’d used three varieties of heirloom tomatoes and told us each has its own distinctive taste. This could explain the complexity of flavor.

Risotto is one of my all-time favorites so I was happy when this creamy rice dish with granny smith apples, hazelnuts and prosciutto arrived. We all loved that the prosciutto was crisp like a thin cracker. Chef Howard told us that he baked the prosciutto slices between two pieces of parchment paper to achieve this effect—one he felt was a good contrast to the soft risotto and apples.

Throughout dinner Marie worked her way around the room talking with each guest and answering questions. At times she turned and addressed the entire group with tips, background stories and observations that would help them later in the kitchen.

One guest at our table shared that she was originally put off by the book and had viewed it as a giant advertisement for Sur la Table’s often expensive, name-brand products. Marie shared that she’d had similar concerns, but had worked hard to provide a treasure trove of information and recipes that would help and inspire readers. While she loves the implements featured in the book, Marie knows that many cooks can’t always afford them so recommends alternatives both in the book and at her store appearances.

During one appearance at a cooking store, Marie began offering affordable alternatives to pricey equipment and noticed that the manager looked tense. Later he happily informed her that they had sold five thousand dollars worth of products—both the featured ones and her alternatives. Sur la Table should realize that in her concern for all cooks, Marie Simmons is really a brilliant marketer.

I peeked in my book to find out what tool was used for the main course of pork medallion sauté with figs, and discovered it was a simple meat pounder. Contrary to what many believe, this is not just a clumsy club to beat veal, chicken, and beef into shredded submission, but a useful tool that should be selected for its weight and balance and ability to flatten. As I scanned the tips and recommended care I learned more than I ever knew was possible.

As Chef Howard’s fresh apricot and blueberry tart arrived, several of us started talking about the spirit of the night. The energy level remained high, due in part to Marie. One of her friends noted that, “she’s passionate about her work and sharing it with others. Marie is a good friend and a great person.” As a self-taught cook and reader of thousands of cookbooks over the years, I recognized in Marie the mentor we all wish we’d had during our novice years. There’s a lot to be learned from her new book and I can’t wait to get started.

Get a printable copy of Marie Simmon’s Pork Medallion Sauté with Figs recipe.

Spend an evening with celebrated chef and prolific writer Joyce Goldstein and you’ll see why she is known as the American master of Mediterranean cuisine. Read one of her cookbooks, and experience her passion and ability to teach and inspire readers. Eat a meal prepared from her new book, Mediterranean Fresh: A Compendium of One-Plate Salad Meals and Mix-and-Match Dressings, and you’ll be a fan forever.

Earlier this week Goldstein returned to Cooks with Books at the Left Bank Brasserie for her fifth event—becoming one of the series’ all-time most popular guest authors. Working closely with Executive Chef, Scott Howard, she offered a menu that celebrated the summer bounty and introduced guests to the simple beauty and flavors of well prepared Mediterranean salads.

I arrived early, ordered a glass of wine at the bar and took up residence at a small sidewalk table to peruse the book while unwinding from a hectic work day. Soon the outside world faded as I became absorbed in Goldstein’s Mediterranean world. I learned that she originally developed a course on salads for students at the Culinary Institute of American in Napa Valley, then expanded it for her readers. The goal: to get cooks away from the salad bar mentality, encouraging them to try new combinations and ingredients and always taste, taste, taste before pairing.

 When the guests began arriving I headed in to get my book signed. Goldstein was seated at a small table inside an intimate dining room welcoming guests, posing for photos and answering questions. I looked forward to meeting her and was thrilled to learn that I’d been seated next to her at dinner. Our table was filled with foodies, writers and a food photographer all getting to know each other. Goldstein finished up her signing duties and joined in our now-lively conversation.

The first course arrived—the “amuse ” (“Amuse bouche” is a
French term for a tiny first course, literally “to amuse the mouth”)—a fluke carpaccio beautifully arranged with tender young greens and mustard shallot citrus dressing. One guest noted that she’d had beef carpaccio, but not tried it with fish. Both of us were pleased as we dipped the mild buttery soft slices of fish into the tangy dressing then went for the crunchy radish slices and peppery greens. I wanted to know what other types of fish worked in this recipe. Goldstein told us, “I usually prefer ahi tuna but Chef Howard has done a very nice job here. You could also use Alaskan halibut or salmon.”                                                                                                                   

Our Spanish-influenced appetizer of chickpeas with squid and chorizo arrived and quickly became one of my favorite dishes at these events. Truthfully, I’d been a bit apprehensive about the combination but was quickly won over with the beautiful colors, textures, and how the tomato vinaigrette tied all the flavors together. Chef Howard surprised us by using fresh green chickpeas that he’d found at the market earlier. Goldstein smiled and let us know “this is really a treat as they are often difficult to find. That’s why I call for dried chickpeas in the recipe.” Most had never eaten fresh chickpeas and enjoyed the raw crunch they added to the squid and chorizo. Goldstein told everyone that they grew in pods and had to be shelled—a bit labor intensive but well worth the effort.

Throughout dinner, Goldstein regularly took the microphone and talked about the dishes and their ingredients, enriching our experiences with back stories only she could provide. We learned that when training restaurant staffs she begins by setting up a tasting session that includes all of the salad ingredients and dressings on the menu. She’s found that most novices don’t understand that there is a correct way to pair salad ingredients, and not everything goes together blindly. For example, raspberry vinaigrette appears on many menus but seldom works with standard fare, so why is it included? “Read the book”, she enthused. “Read it, use it and you will master salads and dressings.”

Chef Howard prepared roasted chicken for the main course and paired it with Goldstein’s seasonal tomato and peach salad. As chef at the Café at Chez Panisse and at her own award-winning Square One Mediterranean restaurant in San Francisco, Goldstein always demanded first-rate ingredients and helped pioneer the use of seasonal, locally grown produce and ingredients. This meal—especially the tomatoes and peaches—showcased the importance of her philosophies. The celebration of summer continued as chef sent our summer galette of puffed pasty, plump apricots, and fat, juicy blackberries drizzled with crème fraiche.

The evening wound down with both spirits and tummies well nourished. I picked up my copy of the book and knew that the adventure into Joyce Goldstein’s world of Mediterranean cuisine had just begun. Inspired, my mind raced: what recipe should I make first? Fattous salad with pita bread is a tempting possibility for tomorrow’s dinner. Or, am I feeling really adventurous? Mussels with potatoes and saffron mayonnaise is definitely on my radar. Oh, the possibilities…stay tuned!

Get a printable recipe of Joyce Goldstein’s Fish Carpaccio with Mustard Shallot Citrus Dressing.

If you don’t usually check out Beyond Wonderful every week, now you’ve got a reason to. I’m thrilled to announce the July 23rd launch of “Hungry for the Weekend”—our new weekly feature for busy home chefs. If you’re looking for inspiration and foolproof recipes that make weekend cooking a breeze, this is the place for you.

Every Wednesday, HFTW will present seasonal dishes with ingredients plentiful in the markets. Some weeks, we may prep for a party—other times, just for ourselves. The main point is to relax and recharge by turning off the cell phone, leaving the job behind and retreating to the simpler world of the kitchen.

First up: six sumptuous desserts that celebrate summer berries in all their plump and juicy splendor. You’ll find a show-stopping trifle, luscious shortcake, fresh fruit pie, French clafouti and two intensely flavored sorbets. Each one is a great excuse to visit your local famer’s market—or your local farm to do your own picking.

A new feature doesn’t launch itself, so it’s been a busy week for the team. Everything begins in the kitchen, where I test and retest to make each recipe sparkle. Next it’s off to the desk of our editor, Elizabeth Ellis. She makes sure the recipes are error-free and easy to use, then gives her stamp of approval. 

The real fun happens on photo day: photographer Windsor Andersen and I decided to set our berry bonanza in my flower-filled garden. After scouting the best locations outside, Windsor arrived in the kitchen armed with plates, bowls and accessories to style each dish. She looked around at what must have appeared as chaos; bowls of berries, trays of shortcake, pies and enough whipped cream to send someone happily into the next world.

Every successful shoot begins with a snack, so Windsor grabbed a spoon and sampled the Very Berry Topping. “Ummmm—that’s summer in a bowl. Let’s start with that.” Once she’d captured the perfect shot of sweet berry sorbet with vibrant purple topping, I popped the bowl back in the freezer for safe keeping while we tackled the rest of the dishes.

Later at twilight, the day’s work done, I returned to the garden with my secret stash of sorbet. The warm, jasmine-scented air was heaven and I savored every berry bite. Sure proof that great seasonal food is truly restorative—even after a 12-hour day!

Get a printable Very Berry Sorbet recipe.

When I say “garden salad,” what comes to mind?  Is it the familiar restaurant plate of colorless iceberg lettuce with pinky-red tomato bits that are covered with a mass-produced dressing? Maybe it’s their sometimes-greener version with a Romaine, a bit of shredded carrot and—if you’re lucky—some contrasting purple cabbage. Get ready for a true garden salad that is a veritable symphony of flavors, colors and texture.

I start with a variety of summer greens that also includes fresh herbs like basil, Italian parsley and mint—torn, not chopped. The larger pieces of herbs work as greens and add an intense flavor not possible with finely chopped leaves. While they are best picked fresh from the garden, you’ll find everything at your local farmers market or in the produce section of most supermarkets.

Summer brings a bounty of luscious tomatoes in all colors, sizes and varieties. I often mix the larger ones with a handful of sweet, multicolored cherry tomatoes for variety.

Grilled purple onions, orange and yellow peppers, and different squash add a smoky depth of flavor to the salad. This may seem like lots of extra work, but I always grill my veggies in big batches so I’ve got plenty on hand for lunches, weeknight meals, and salads.

With this medley of strong flavors, the dressing should be simple but have a sweet bite to set everything off. Good quality balsamic vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil with a sprinkling of salt and pepper is perfection.

Summer Garden Salad

4 cups  mixed greens
2 cups  grilled mixed vegetables
1 cup  red, yellow or orange tomatoes, cut in eights
½ cup  basil leaves, roughly torn
¼ cup  Italian parsley, leaves only
¼ cup  mint leaves, roughly torn
4 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup  extra virgin olive oil

1. Place the mixed greens in a salad bowl.

2. Cut the grilled vegetables into bite-sized pieces and add to the salad.

4. Add the tomatoes, basil, parsley and mint leaves.

5. Combe the balsamic vinegar, salt, and pepper in a spacious bowl and slowly whisk in the olive oil, forming an emulsion. For detailed instructions read, “How to Make an Emulsion“.

6. Dress the salad with the oil and vinegar and toss gently to coat.

6. Serve immediately.

Preparation time: 5 minutes with pre-grilled vegetables and prepared salad dressing.
Serves 6–8

Get a printable Garden Salad with Tomatoes and Grilled Vegetables and illustrated step-by-step instructions on How To Wash Greens and How To Make an Emulsion.