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Bagna Cauda

Bagna Cauda Italian recipe

We’re all getting tired of cold, cold winter, so when the sun came out for a few short hours, everyone at my house headed outdoors to soak it up. I followed them with a hot bowl of bagna cauda, a tray of bite-sized vegetables and a loaf of crusty French bread for dipping.

Bagna cauda is a simple Italian mixture of olive oil and butter infused with garlic and anchovies. The proportions are basically up to the cook. What’s your pleasure? Some prefer more oil while others go heavy on the melted butter. A hint of garlic or enough to keep the vampires away—after all we’re all in this together, so garlic breath is not an issue. Then there are the anchovies, those controversial little critters you either love or hate. Do you want a subtle sophisticated flavor or a fish-infused jolt? Personally, I prefer a mixture of 2/3 cup of good olive oil with ¼ cup of butter, lots of garlic and no more than four anchovy fillets. Some cooks delight in eight to 10 fillets, in which case I must pass on the sauce and fill up on the veggies, bread, and a crisp glass of white wine to drown my disappointment.

As we all sat around the old garden table laughing and sharing the feast, the winds picked up and things got cold really fast. I was reminded of the early vineyard workers of Piedmont, Italy, who depended on this pungent dish to warm them up in the fields on cold winter days. Like the peasants that originated it, the vineyard workers consumed their bagna cauda in large rustic pots set over an open flame. Today, I served it in a terra cotta pot set over a candle to keep it warm. No matter your heat source, never boil the sauce or you risk spoiling it quickly.

Italians serve fresh local vegetables like fennel, cardoons and peppers for dipping, while I chose cauliflower florets, peppers, cucumbers, broccoli and artichokes for my platter. In California we are fortunate to have an abundance of winter produce choices that can be served raw, blanched or roasted.

Many home cooks go into the kitchen and madly chop a bunch of vegetables for immediate consumption, and while this works well for cucumbers and peppers, there is a much better way for sturdier items like broccoli, cauliflower and carrots. Take the time to blanch these vegetables in salted boiling water for several minutes, then plunge them into ice water to stop the cooking process. You’ll be amazed at the difference between hard, gray-green raw broccoli florets and the tender, emerald green morsels you get after blanching. A veggie worthy of all that delicious sauce!

I’m also a great fan of roasting vegetables like artichokes. Simply halve them and cut away the thorny tips of their leaves with scissors. Rub with olive oil, then place a clove of peeled garlic, a lemon slice and sprig or two of fresh thyme on each half and place face down on a baking sheet. Roast them in a 375-degree oven for approximately 50 minutes, or until the leaves pull away easily. Try this once and you’ll never boil an artichoke again.

Bagna cauda is the essence of simple food shared with friends and family; both warming and fortifying us for the next big storm.

 

Why It’s Worth It to Peel 40 Cloves of Garlic


Looks good, huh? Someone took a bite out of the leg before the platter made it to the table. It never fails. Every time I make chicken with 40 cloves of garlic the group here goes crazy. They buzz the kitchen sniffing and salivating once the scent of its sweet, earthy goodness fills the air.

As I warm the baguettes and slide hot noodles into a large bowl, the group starts loosing control. Plating the chicken is a nightmare as they grab spoons from the drawer to “test” the gravy. Finally finished, I yell, “to the table” and the stampede out of the kitchen is immediate. Whooof.

You may be wondering how on earth a simple dish of chicken and garlic drives my family and friends wild. Let me share a few tips that make it over-the-moon-wonderful.

The secret to great-tasting chicken begins with a light sprinkling of salt 24 hours before you’re ready to cook. It makes all the difference between a bland bird that depends on gravy for its flavor and one that delights with every bite.

Rub the salt into the raw meat and over the skins. (I also like a bit of freshly ground black pepper just because I do.) Done.

Sauté the chicken pieces to golden brown crispiness. Remove from the pot and toss in the 40 cloves of garlic, cooking until golden. Scoop them out and set aside.

Empty pot—or is it? It’s actually coated with tiny, flavorful bits of browned chicken and garlic scattered around the newly rendered fat. This is the holy grail of awesome gravy.

Capture all that goodness with a bit of wine or chicken broth and lots of vigorous scraping to integrate the flavorful bits into the liquid. The rest is basic gravy making 101: butter, flour, drinking quality white wine, broth and salt and pepper. You can fancy it up with cream and brandy, but keep it simple the first time.

Place the crisped chicken pieces skin-side-up in the pot. This is important because if placed skin-side-down, the fatty chicken skin will stew in the gravy becoming slimy and inedible. Not pretty. Tuck the garlic and fresh thyme sprigs in and around the chicken rather than tossing randomly. Pour the gravy around the chicken pieces and over the tops. You want the meat roasting, not stewing in a giant puddle of liquid. Cover the pot and let the magic begin.

As to controlling ravenous, unruly diners that can’t resist this amazing dish, you’re on your own.

Print a copy of Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic for your convenience.

 

Happy Haunting!
Fiendishly Adorable Halloween Treats


Don’t be afraid. Come closer. These crisp, melt-in-your mouth meringue ghosts are sweet little things that help make Halloween memorable. They are truly happy and most playful atop moist, chocolate cupcakes slathered with black chocolate buttercream frosting, but are always up for other edible celebratory adventures.

I first met them several years ago when Chef Catherine Christiansen sent the recipes for a Beyond Wonderful Halloween baking piece I took one look and felt a cold wind blowing. The ghosts were a cute idea, but I’d never made meringue from scratch. Who does that in today’s world? Worse yet, they had to be piped onto a baking sheet for a photo shoot. Everyone on my team quickly abandoned the kitchen and left me to fend for myself. Deep sigh.

I soon discovered that meringue was super easy to make because I knew how to whip egg whites properly. First, for maximum volume, egg whites should be brought to room temperature before whipping.

Second, since grease interferes with egg whites’ frothing action, make sure that your bowl and utensils are perfectly clean, and avoid using plastic bowls, which can harbor traces of grease even after thorough cleaning. Similarly, even a hint of stray yolk mixed in with the whites will prevent proper whipping, so use care when separating the eggs.

Let’s get started.

Halloween Meringue Ghosts

3 large egg whites
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees and line two baking sheet with parchment paper, or grease and dust with flour.

1. Place the egg whites and  cream of tartar in a medium bowl and use an electric mixer at high speed to beat until the whites hold soft peaks. Add the sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating until stiff peaks form. Beat in the vanilla.

2. Place the meringue in a pastry bag fitted with a ½” round tip. Holding bag straight up squeeze meringue onto a small pile on baking sheet. Build up the “body” of the ghost and end with a point on top.

Note: Don’t worry about your piping skills as perfection is not required. Embrace the thin and fat, left and right leaning, and weird heads that add character once the eyes and mouths are added.

3. Bake the ghosts in the preheated oven until the meringues are firm to touch, about 75 minutes.

4. Turn off heat and leave the meringues in the closed oven for 1 hour. Lift one up and test the bottom center to see if they have dried out. If not, leave in the oven for an additional 20–30 minutes.

5. To decorate: Make “eyes” and “mouth” with dots of black buttercream. Alternatively, poke miniature chocolate chips into the ghosts to create facial features.

6. Ghosts can be made up to 1 week ahead in a dry climate. Store, tightly covered, at room temperature.

Note: Don’t fret if the ghosts become moist as they basically hold their shape and taste quiet nice in a sticky, chewy way.

The cupcakes are up to you. If homemade sounds good, try this yummy chocolate sour cream recipe. Then again, you may prefer a good devil’s food cake mix when time is tight.

Frosting, on the other hand, is an entirely different matter. No canned, store bought sweetness allowed. Instead, my Halloween gift to you—a decadent, voluptuously dark and creamy buttercream frosting that’s over-the-top good. Make a double batch; one for the cupcakes and one for you to keep hidden in the fridge with a spoon for frequent treats. I’ll never tell.

…then again, I can’t vouch for the ghosts.

Seeds of Change
A New Way to Roast Pumpkin Seeds

Oooh, so disgusting! Or is it? Be brave and plunge those hesitant wiggly fingers deep into the moist, squishy abyss of pumpkin guts and goo. Scoop everything out and I’ll show you an easy way to roast the seeds. You’ll be rewarded with a scrumptious burst of flavor for almost zero effort.

There is no set recipe for roasted pumpkin seeds since your amounts will differ each time you make them. But follow these simple instructions and you’ll master the process quickly.

Here’s the ultimate trick for one of October’s greatest treats:

Place the seeds in a zip-top bag and sprinkle with salt. (No need to worry about cleaning them first—any clinging pulp will get rinsed away later.) Seal the bag and squish to distribute the salt. Store in the refrigerator for at least 3 days, or up to 10 days.

Remove the seeds from the bag and place them in a colander. Run cool water over them, using your hands to remove any bits of pumpkin.

Place the seeds on a pizza pan with holes, or a baking sheet.

Pat the seeds dry with a paper towel or clean kitchen towel.

Toss them lightly with melted butter or olive oil.

Sprinkle the seeds with your favorite herbs and spices. Do not add salt at this point, or the seeds could become inedible. Toss the seeds to coat evenly.

Place the seasoned seeds in a preheated 325-degree oven for 25 to 30 minutes, or until golden brown. Check the seeds halfway through the process to prevent burning. Remove the pumpkin seeds from the oven and let them cool for 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

Cool completely, then store in an airtight container if not devoured as they came out of the oven. Print out our illustrated step-by-step How To Roast Pumpkin Seeds for easy reference.

Summer in a Jar
Simple Basil Pesto

Every autumn just before my cold-weather nesting instincts kick-in, I capture the scent and taste of summer basil in a huge bowl of pesto for freezing. You may think of making pesto as a complicated, time-consuming process best avoided in favor of expensive jars sold at upscale markets. Not. Nothing could be quicker, easier and more delicious than homemade—cheaper, too.

Pesto requires five basic, best-quality ingredients: fresh basil, grated parmesan cheese, pine nuts, garlic and olive oil. It’s hardly any extra trouble to make multiple batches, so I always buy ingredients in bulk and make a whopping 18  batches for freezing.

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Since pesto ingredients are pricey, there are a few things that you should know when shopping. Farmers markets are a good source for basil, and are definitely cheaper and fresher than the small, expensive pre-packaged basil sold in supermarkets. I pre-order 20 good-sized bunches of basil from my trusted produce man for a $1.50 a bunch. Buy real parmesan cheese from Parma, Italy—not the mass-produced stuff in shakable containers full of fillers. This is definitely one time when you get what you pay for. Pine nuts are divine but very expensive, so shop around for the best price. I find that superstores like Costco sell 1 1/2-pound bags for $25, while upscale markets go for the gold with bulk pricing around $35 per pound. The Costco bag is perfect for my work and I save $27.50.

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Back in the kitchen, grab your food processor and set up a work station so you can move quickly and efficiently through multiple batches. (Note that each batch yields about one cup of sauce.)

Pour each completed batch into a large, non-reactive bowl as you work. Once completely finished, season the entire bowl at once. Do not add the salt to each individual batch, or the pesto becomes too salty. Same thing with the pepper.

Know that Parmesan cheese is salty so add the seasonings a little at a time. Mix well and taste before adding more.

Storing pesto is easy. If you plan on refrigerating a small batch of  sauce, prevent browning by placing plastic wrap directly onto the surface. And as if this wonder sauce weren’t already too good to be true, it also freezes beautifully for a year. That said, think ahead to how you will use the pesto and measure and freeze accordingly. Personally, I love using ice trays with a good tablespoon of sauce in each cube. Quick and easy to thaw, these portions are perfect for drizzling in soup, slathering on a baguette, mixing into rice—you get my point.

Come winter when the rain and snow seem never-ending, a burst of pesto warms my soul and reminds me that summer will come again. Really.

Print a copy of my Pesto recipe for your convenience.